Big Sur

Hi! Ellie here. From Stinson, Johno and I continued south with my parents and Nanny to her house on the Big Sur Coast.

Nanny’s house is one of my favourite places in the world, and I’ve loved introducing it to Johno. While he doesn’t have the nostalgia associated with childhood visits here, it’s still a beautiful place with incredible views and complete lack of any noise pollution.

The first week we were here coincided with a heatwave that gave even us ‘Africans’ pause. We still managed to have plenty of fun, though, with card games, hikes on the more shaded trails, and lots of good food. On the side we tackled some deep cleaning jobs like shampooing the carpet and ousting the vast majority of cobwebs and spiders around the place. It felt good to be able to be helpful to Nanny, who is so generously hosting us here for so long.

We also made a trip to the Monterey Bay aquarium, which is always magical.

My parents flew back to South Africa on the 2nd, but Johno and I extended our Big Sur visit for another two weeks, just to enjoy some extra time in this beautiful, peaceful place with Nanny. I’m finding it such a pleasure to have unstructured time with less intense social after a few very busy months. My brain is fizzing with ideas for art projects, and possibilities for the future. I’ll share more of that as it develops.
Much love,

E

Catch up and wrap up

Hello all! Ellie here. It’s the end of December and I’m scurrying to fit in one final blog post before I run out of year. When we last wrote, we had just rearranged the house, bought a car, and I had accepted a job for next year (2021 is now tomorrow!) as an art teacher. Having accomplished all that, we decided that it was a fine time for a holiday and took off in mid-November for a long-awaited visit to see my folks.

The following six weeks were just pure joy. I had just endured my longest stint ever apart from the parents (11ish months), and let me tell you it was good to be able to hug them and Ben. Sure, South Africa was all weird and locked down because of the nasty bug going around, but we were for the most part perfectly content to hide away with the three people in all of South Africa who I had most wanted to see. We went on a “glamping” trip to rocklands for a few days, but apart from that just stayed home and sang songs and played games. (In fact, according to our ultimate scoreboard, we played over 100 games in all). A perfect holidy.

The following album is just random pictures of our family time, because that’s really what redeemed the whole end of the year for me. I love these people!

Some highlights:

  • Meeting the new dog, Mona, who is a sweetie and a real adventure dog
  • Eating all the tasty treats and snacks we can’t get in Zimbabwe
  • Lots and lots of hugs from Mom and Dad and Ben
  • Outdoor walks catching up with friends
  • Online shopping for new gadgets
  • Christmas with the Bisters
  • Just, SO much family time

Six weeks sounded like a long time when I first booked the trip, but it slipped away oh so quickly. We’re now back in Zimbabwe, settling into our cottage and trying to get organised for what is likely to be a HIGHLY eventful 2021. I’ll be learning to be a teacher. Johno will be working and photographing spiders. Other wildly unpredictable things will likely happen. Stay tuned, and Happy New Year! 🙂

Caves with Friends

It was a Friday, and a public holiday, so Johno and I and ten friends piled into three cars and headed out of town to go see the Chinhoyi caves. (Gotta save petrol, since it’s so hard to get right now.) We drove for an hour and finally reached the caves.

After first convincing the people at the entrance that we were not tourists (tourists pay a hefty USD fee), we headed straight to the main cave.

There were bat squeaks, and vivid blue water full of happy fish. After standing around admiring the lake for a while, we climbed back through the very steep tunnel, and headed to the Dark Cave.

Now after all that, my favourite part of the day was still to come. We headed around the corner to some massive polo fields, where we picnicked and played frisbee for the rest of the afternoon. It made me so happy to have such a lovely group of friends to spend time with.

Apologies for the bad panorama picture.

Our friends are almost all heavy tea drinkers, so we closed off the day with tea from the flasks that everyone seemed to have brought, then headed home. The caves were beautiful, but what really made the day were the people. People being entertaining on the drives, playing spooky pranks in the caves, sharing their food, and tea, and time. We even all shared the pain of sunburns the next week! But then, that’s what friends are for.

Yellow happiness

This week I both started and completed a satisfying little home improvement project. I had been thinking for a while that our art room/study needed some splashes of colour. My solution? Yellow curtains!

I decided to use the pieces of white cotton which were currently hung over strings as curtains, and dye them myself. But not with boring old fabric dye: with turmeric! Most of my info on the how-tos of the process I found here, if you’re interested in giving it a whack.

After first tie dying a fun little scarf as a tester, I got to work.

On top of being hugely satisfying, the simmering turmeric made the whole house smell delicious!

After dying that first one, I was committed (and enthusiastic). Over the course of the next week I dyed all of the rest of the fabric, and then today I sewed them into proper curtains and hung them up.

I’m very happy with how these turned out. I know they’ll eventually fade in the sun, but they still add such a beautiful pop of colour to that room. It’s going to make me happy every time I see them.

Taxi Part 2

My camera roll has reached a critical mass. It’s time for my next dump of taxi photos. This has been a delightful quest, and it’s gotten to the point where my friends here are starting to send me the best ones they see in their day to day lives. Apologies for the quality: most of these were taken from a moving car.

I asked a taxi driver why they choose the things they do, and he said that mostly it’s important for them to be memorable and stand out from their competition.

A list of amazing ones that I didn’t manage to get pictures of:

  • Burning Decaf
  • Real Situation
  • Misunderstood Destruction Boys
  • Touch Screen – Soft Touch
  • Mr Perfect
  • Madam’s Boss
  • Manager by Birth
  • Wanted Suspect
  • Theatre of Dreams
  • Club Member
  • Pass the chalice dry mouth
  • Syndicate Hobbit
  • Ceylon good morning

And with that, I’ll wrap up this post.

Our Cottage of Content

As I was wandering oer the green
Not knowing where I went
By chance I saw a pleasant scene
The cottage of content.

Well, we’ve found it! I mentioned in a previous post that we were looking for a new place to live. Mere hours after I published that post, we found it while visiting Johno’s aunt and uncle, Sally and Jaap. They have a beautiful cottage at the bottom of their property where their daughter (recently emigrated) used to live. We walked into the sunny front room and fell in love. The whole place radiates welcome, simplicity, and contentment. The rent is reasonable, there’s always running water, and Johno gets to finally set up the solar system he’s been dreaming of! While it’s about 10 kilometers away from our old neighborhood, it should be a manageable commute a couple times a week for church and social stuff.

On Wednesday this week we started packing up the (considerable) piles of stuff we’ve amassed during our time here. By Friday we finished moving across, and slept in our new house. We’re both so happy. It feels like the stuff of dreams. A permanent place where we can plant gardens and hang our art on the walls.

I’ll stop talking and just show you some pictures. Johno will say more soon, I’m sure. ❤

Zimtrospect

The weekend after we arrived back in Zimbabwe, we had tea with a friend, and he asked us a question we’ve gotten numerous times recently. “What would possess you to live in Zimbabwe when you have other options?” Alright, he may have asked more politely than that. But it is a good question. And one that people are likely to keep asking as the situation in Zimbabwe is… not improving.

This can be quickly illustrated by the problems posed by our search for a new place to live. As people who work from home, we need consistent wifi and decent electricity. Most of Harare currently has load shedding for 18 hours of the day. Just recently, municipal water has also become inconsistent, either running dirty or not at all. So wherever we find, we’ll have to make a plan for that. And finally, the fact that getting petrol usually requires queueing for a couple hours means that it would be very nice to be close to church, friends, exercise etc. More about a search for a new home in a later blog post. We’re currently staying with Johno’s parents, and doing just fine.

So why? We’re not really tied to any country yet, by family or property or even jobs.

Part of it, of course, is that neither of us really wants to leave Southern Africa. These cultures, people, even problems are ours. For me personally, Zimbabwe felt instantly familiar when I moved here, resembling many of the places I grew up. I love the culture of respect, the dust, the way everyone gardens in their back yard, the mix of traditional and modern, and the strength of community found in spite (or perhaps because) of the hardships everyone faces.

Another reason is that here it feels like we can make a tangible difference in the problems we see. Both Johno and I crave work that has meaning; here in Zim even everyday life has meaning. Whenever we buy from a small vendor, or give someone a lift, it feels like we’re truly helping someone. Johno gets to put his skills to work on cool projects like reforestation. Even just living here and spending our foreign-earned income boosts the economy. Unlike Cape Town where I’m always overwhelmed by the seemingly insurmountable societal problems I see, here there is hope. I don’t know quite why, but Zimbabweans are hopeful. They’re kind to each other. The big PROBLEMS here are more administrative than societal if I can put it that way.

And jumping from that to one of my personal reasons for loving Zimbabwe: here I feel safe. I can be kind to strangers because I don’t automatically distrust them. I can walk places by myself! I can sleep with my windows open, and just generally live without being afraid. After living in Cape Town, being unafraid feels incredibly freeing.
p.s. For a general comparison of people’s perceptions of crime and safety in Harare and Cape Town, see here.

What else? Well on a practical level, Zimbabwe is a fairly cheap place for us to live. Because we both earn foreign currency, Zimbabwe’s financial troubles actually put us in a fairly strong economic position. This gives us the freedom to work flexibly, and spend time doing other things we consider important. It also looks like it will be fairly easy for me to get a spousal visa here, making the paperwork and logistics significantly easier than anywhere else we’ve considered.

Last, but certainly not least, there are so many people here that we love! Johno’s parents, a wonderful church, our Thursday dinner crowd and our life group, the wacky group of women I exercise with, various other relatives and friends… Despite the relatively short time I’ve been here, people have welcomed me with open hearts, and have found their way into my heart, too.

This concludes my attempts to answer that frequently asked question, at least for now. But if you read our blogs going forward, I’m sure you’ll see illustrated many more reasons why Zim is the right place for us to be. 🙂

Gone Sailing

Jacana Sailing Club

We’ve mentioned Chivero national park before. Well, inside the park is a large dam/lake. Apparently people sail there! So our friend Scott invited us to go sailing this weekend, as part of an event that his sailing club was hosting. So yesterday morning we packed sunblock, hats, lots of water, and headed out for a day by the lake.

We carpooled with Alex and Jed, who had also been invited. By ignoring the route suggested by google maps, we arrived half an hour early. We explored a bit, and then sat down to wait for Scott.

Jed and Alex, our adventure buddies.

The lake was beautiful. We saw a few cool new birds, including a tiny Kittlitz plover and a rather large Whiskered Tern. Off to the side, the organisers of the event were starting the potjie lunch for after our sail.

The plan was to go for a 2km walk on the beach, then an hour-long sail, then a 4km run in the forest. None of us were too keen on the run, but that was a problem for later. We set off on the walk with a mixed crowd of kids, older people, and us. There were probably 15 kids from ages 6 to about 11, and they took the lead shouting for us to “hurry up!”.

Once we got back, it was time to sail! Scott took Johno and I as crew, while another nice man put up with Alex and Jed’s attempts to capsize him. Unfortunately, we left our phones on shore, so I didn’t get any pictures of us sailing. Several tiny boats manned entirely by kiddos also set out. I was so impressed by the tiny sailboats. I can’t imagine a better thing than having your own sailboat as a kid. One of the young crews managed to follow us all the way across the lake!

So we sailed all the way across the lake. What a feeling! Leaning back over the edge of the boat to make sure it didn’t overbalance. Pulling various sheets(ropes). On the other side of the dam we saw a croc, and some ostrich, and Zebra and baboons and a bush pig. It was marvelous.

After the sail, we went on a birdwalk in the forest, while everyone else ran or biked. I had a bit of a headache, but I really enjoyed getting to see Johno walking and chatting with his three lovely friends.

Jed, Johno, Scott and Alex

We returned to a massive potjie (or three!) for a late lunch.

Lots remaining even after everyone had seconds.

Finally, after a glorious day of sun and wind and water and friends, we headed home.

Family Holiday

This post has now been delegated to me. Since our primary readership were all present on said holiday, it may be mostly pictures with captions rather than a coherent story. But for the rest of you: Ellie’s family came to visit us in Zimbabwe for a week, and it was wonderful 🙂

We whisked them away to Nyanga, staying in a cottage at Conomara and wandering the hills like hobbits.

Fish were fished, walks were walked, views were viewed and card games were well and truly gamed. Meals were decadent, and our cottage was cosy and fire-warmed to take the edge off the chill.

Brother David was also back, and it was nice hanging out with him and catching up.

I think that’s all I’ve got to say in this post. Slideshow available on request. Bye 🙂

African Queens

On the 29th of May, Johno and I had the chance to help out on the set of Gemma Griffith’s new music video. The theme was feminist afrofuturism. The location was an empty warehouse. The experience was amazing! And now I finally get the chance to post these pictures, because the music video has just come out! You can find it here.

We weren’t really sure how much help we’d be, but over the course of the day we did a lot. Johno helped climb high and wobbly things, provide electricity solutions when the power went out at a crucial moment, and generally just ran around being useful. I ended up as the official body painter for all the women in the video (see if you can spot my work in the final product!), repaired costumes, made tea, and held a baby among various other bits and bobs.

But more than that, it was SO much fun meeting all the wonderful women in the video, and watching the whole thing come to life under our eyes. In the back room, a team worked like mad to make everyone’s hair, faces, and costumes camera-ready. The videographers had everything planned to the minute, to ensure they got the perfect lighting for each shot. And despite the frantically busy backstage, everything went off like a charm.

The rest of this post will just be a blurry photo gallery description of the day. Enjoy!

And that’s all folks! Go watch the video. It’s pretty cool. And was so cool to be a part of.